| Home made 125mm table saw | 
| May. 6/2017 I made table saw for acrylic board and thin wood bord.Drawing | 
|  |  | |
| 1.I Used model 5025-KB of the MAKITA. | 2.It's a base plate. | |
|  |  | |
| 3.Replacement blade. Chip-saw 125* 1.0 on on the left side for plastic. Right side chip-saw 125*1.1 for the woodworking. | 4.The material is Laminated rubber wood. | |
|  |  | |
| 5.Cutting by table-saw. | 6.Sanding by roll sander. | |
|  |  | |
| 7.Process parts of the legs. The bit is 19 mm. | 8.Make hollow 10mm into the back side of the table top plate for the circular saw. The bit is 19 mm | |
|  |  | |
| 9.When the flange part of the router is about to deviate into the hollow, let's put the 10 mm thick wood plate. | 10.Cut the horizontal sides. | |
|  |  | |
| 11.Cut the corners at the right angles by chisel. | 12.Drilling 6mm. | |
|  |  | |
| 13.Counterbore for countersunk screws. | 14.Mount a 1.1 mm thick chip-saw for make a slit. | |
|  |  | |
| 15.Attach a circular saw with flat head screws M6. | 16.Push the circular saw while rotating. | |
|  |  | |
| 17.Prepare grooving for miter gauges. Marking the reference line parallel to the circular saw. | 18.Setting the adjustable fence of the OTORO. | |
|  |  | |
| 19.Cutting a 15.8 mm slot with a 12 mm bit. | 20.Dig the slot for the stopper. The bit is 16mm. | |
|  |  | |
| 21.Cut the corners at the right angles by chisel. | 22.Stopper. The material is beech. Making steps to 3 mm. | |
|  |  | |
| 23.Make a slot with 6 mm bits. | 24.It's a part of lip fence of 16 mm aluminum frame. Drilling 2.5mm for M3 tap. | |
|  |  | |
| 25. M3 tap. | 26.This bar is Y axis of lip fence. Drilling 3mm. | |
|  |  | |
| 27.This is the push plate of the tightens fence. The material is beech. Drilling 10 mm of spot faceing. | 28.Making a washer. Size 10 mm OD, 3mmID, 1.5mm thick. | |
|  |  | |
| 29.Drilling a 2.5mm pilot hole of M3 tap on the fence tightening screw. | 30.This is a resin joint for the frame. Cut one side to 36 mm in length. | |
|  |  | |
| 31.This is a square rod of aluminum to be inserted into the cut resin joint. It is 7.5 mm square. | 32.Insert the aluminum square rod into the joint. | |
|  |  | |
| 33.Drilling a 5mm pilot hole of M6 tap. | 34.Tapping M6. | |
|  |  | |
| 35.Cut the frame on the Y axis side of the lip fence according to the drawing. | 36.Insert the resin joint into the Y axis frame using clamp. | |
|  |  | |
| 37.The T bar part of the lip fence. | 38.The tightening-part of lip fence. | |
|  |  | |
| 39.Sanding. | 40.Oil finish. | |
|  |  | |
| 41.Making a splitter.Material is aluminum.Drawing | 42.Cut the aluminum into an L shape. | |
|  |  | |
| 43.Paste the drawing with spray glue. | 44.Cut along the paper pattern. And make a counterbore. | |
|  |  | |
| 45.Cut a 8 mm slot. | 46.Install on the table top. | |
|  |  | |
| 47.Cutting the circular saw cord short and attach the plug. | 48.Secure the cord with bracket. | |
|  |  | |
| 49.Outlet and tumbler switch. | 50.Here is a stopper and a spanner space. Embed a 6 mm neodymium magnet in the spanner area.Please put the mouse on the picture. | |
|  |  | |
| 51.Code storage of the right side board. | 52.Replacement blade storage on the left side plate. | |
|  | ||
| Overall picture. | ||
|  | ||
| Miter gauge part. | ||
|  | ||
| Circular saw part. | ||
|  | ||
| Diamond-coated blade edge for plastic cutter. | ||
| YouTube of cutting the acrylic board. | ||