1.The toggle clamp was 1,367 yen in amazon.

2.This is a chuck attached to the tip of the clamp. It's junk.

3.The chuck body and the shaft are connected by fine threads.

4.Cut the flange part.

5.Marking the end face of the cut shaft with a center drill.

6.Drilling 5mm for M8 tap.

7.Tap M8.

8.Chuck and tapped shaft and M8 long screw.

9.Assembly. The long screw was fixed with instant adhesive.

10.This is a shaft collar. The shaft of stitching chisel is knurled. Drilling 8.5 mm because it can not be inserted in the 8mm hole.

11.Attach the shaft collar to the stitching chisel. The collar keeps the height of the stitching chisel constant.

12.Use japanese ash for the center pole to attach the toggle clamp. Cut to 50 mm square with a table saw.

13.Cut off the 30 degree ramp with a band saw.

14.Sanding the cut surface with disc sander.

15.Clamp a 30-degree inclined dumping material cut with a band saw to the tower.

16.Put on the drilling machine in this condition.Then, Drilling can be made perpendicular to the cut surface.

17.Insert M6 insert nutinto the the senter pole.

18.Drilling and countersinking for coarse thread to fix leg.

19.The table is plywood of 18 mm thickness.

20.Countersinking for coarse thread.

21.Rounding of corners with a disc sander.

22.Temporarily clamp and adjust so that the table and toggle clamp mounting surface are at right angles.

23.Install the toggle clamp and chuck and check the right angle just in case. I'm worried that there is a slight play.

24.Attach a stay to the side of the center pole to prevent deflection.

25.Completed frame assembly.

26.Put a stay on the lower sides of the table.

27.As there is a little rattle on the drill chuck, pull it lightly with the spring toward the center pole. First of all, drill a 2.5 mm pilot hole for the M3 tap on the chuck shaft.

28.Tap M3.

29.Drill a 0.5 mm hole in the M3 screw that screws into the shaft. Hang a spring in this hole.

30.Spring hook fitting on the pole side. This is made by an earth lug for a printed circuit board.

31.With the spring attached.

32.Part of the screw.

33.I finished with sesame oil, but I wanted to make a drawer under the table.

34.I glued the pole, so I turned it over and cut the drawer groove.

35.In such a case, the template guide is useful.

36.Set the template guide and bits on the router.

37.Groove cutting completed.

38.6 mm wide groove.

39.The front plate of the drawer is a spalted of horse chestnut. Polished with a drum sander.

40.The bottom plate is 5.5mm thick plywood and the side plate is 2.5mm thick MDF.

41.Cut a 6 mm wide groove to the bottom plate.

42.Next, cut a groove of 3 mm width. A side plate enters here.

43.Use a chisel to finish the corner.

44.Chamfering around the front plate.

45.The knob is ebony.

46.Drilling 8mm to put the knob.

47.Bond each parts.

48.Front of the drawer.

49.It's a bit small, but it seems to be able to store hooks etc.

50.It can store stitch hole and a wrench on the right side of the frame.

51.The left side is also able to store the striker.

I‚” a good feeling.

The 12 mm thick cork board seems to be soft.

6 mm thick hard urethane. This is too soft and the leather sinks.

10mm thick special rubber sheet bought by Tokyu Hands. This is a seat only for stitch holes.