| Round bar making jig | 
| Jun. 20/2021 I needed a 9.5mm plug for the pocket hole jig, so I decided to make a round bar making jig. I designed 8 types of round bars of 5 to 12 mm so that they can be made from square timber.Drawing | 
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| 1.Used poplar timber for the part that serves as a guide for the trimmer. Cut to a thickness of 27 mm. | 2.Cut to a width of 46.5 mm. | |
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| 3.Use bubinga, which is hard and has high wear resistance, for the main body. Cut to a width of 66 mm. | 4.Polish the surface with a drum sander. | |
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| 5.Make a notch with a 19 mm bit. | 6.Mark the drilling position. The Woodpeckers ruler is useful. | |
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| 7.Counterbore of 10 mm * 30 mm depth. | 8.Drilling 5 mm through hole. | |
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| 9.Counterbore of 10 mm * 30 mm depth. And Drilling 6 mm through hole. | 10.Counterbore of 12 mm * 30mm depth by forstner bit. | |
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| 11.Drilling 7mm through hole. | 12.Counterbore of 12 mm * 30 mm depth. And Drilling 8 mm through hole. | |
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| 13.Counterbore of 15 mm * 30 mm depth. And Drilling 9.5 mm through hole. | 14.Counterbore of 15 mm * 30 mm depth. And Drilling 10 mm through hole. | |
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| 15.Counterbore of 18 mm * 30 mm depth. And Drilling 11 mm through hole. | 16.Counterbore of 12 mm * 30 mm depth. | |
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| 17.Drilling 12 mm through hole. | 18.The main body that has been drilled. | |
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| 19.Drilling holes in poplar wood guide parts. | 20.The hole is one size larger than the hole in the main body. | |
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| 21.Cut the groove with a 25 mm dish bit. | 22.Since the hole position of 5 to 12 mm is slightly offset to the upper limit, there is a place where the grooves are deeply scraped off. It is necessary to fix it. | |
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| 23.Drilling 3.8mm for guided member fixation. | 24.Counterbore for countersunk screw. | |
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| 25.Fix the guide member with Coarse Thread. | 26.This is to correct the groove portions are too shaving, 1mm thick wood. | |
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| 27.Paste it into a part that corrects it. | 28.Modify the depths individually with trimmer.I actually use it and think it is necessary to fix it. I thought that it was better to make a shallow groove from the beginning. | |
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| 29.Cut the end face. | 30.This is a jig's leg Two-by-Four, and 3.3 mm perforated for fixation. | |
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| 31.Securing the leg to the body | 32.Marking the position to fix the trimmer with Magic Pen. | |
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| 33.A 2.5 mm thick MDF so that the chips do not splatter, Makeing a plate that closes one side of the trimmer. After cutting out, Sanding the corner to round with a disk sander.
 | 34.Drilling 6mm. | |
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| 35.Make it a long hole so that the position can be adjusted. | 36.Use the knob bolt of trimmer guide for fixation. | |
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| 37.Since there is a gap, air for dust collection can be sucked in. | 38.This is also a parts that improves dust collection efficiency. It is a cover that closes the window that is open at the base of the trimmer by processing a PET bottle. Height 45 mm * length 200 mm. | |
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| 39.Attach velcro to both sides. | 40.Wrap it around the trimmer base in this way and fix it with Velcro. | |
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| 41.Hard to see in the photo, but the trimmer base window is blocked | 42.Make a dust collection port with a 20A PVC elbow. | |
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| 43.I forgot to take a picture of the process of making. Burn it with a burner, crush one side of the elbow a little, and then use a belt sander to cut it to a thickness of 27 mm so that it fits in the groove. The tip is stepped so that it can be inserted between the trimmer base and the jig. | 44.The elbow is inserted between the base and the jig. | |
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| 45.Engraving the name of the jig with a laser. | 46.It can be stamped like this with an output of 3.5W, 100%, and 2500mm/min. | |
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| 47.Similarly, engrave the diameter of the round bar and the dimensions of the blank square lumber. | 48.The C dimension represents the chamfer dimension. This is a painstaking measure. If the square timber was designed with larger dimensions, such chamfering would not have been necessary. It is the second of remorse. | |
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| 49.The front of the completed jig. | 50.Seen from above, the board pasted by adjusting the depth is sad. | |
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| 51.From here, we will make a socket to turn the square timber. First of all, cut out 20 * 16 * 60 L square lumber with japanese ash.Drawing | 52.Polish the surface with a disc sander so that it fits into the aluminum channel. | |
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| 53.Cut the aluminum channel to a length of 35 mm.There is a hole because I used a junk item. | 54.Glue japanese ash and aluminum with Cemedine Super X. | |
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| 55.Grasp the aluminum side with a four-claw chuck and turning the other side to 9 mm. | 56.Next, grab the round bar with a three-claw chuck and make a pilot hole for a square hole. | |
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| 57.Corrected to a square hole with a chisel. | 58.Completed 4 types of sockets. | |
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| 59.To use the socket, first chuck the socket with a drill. | 60.Then insert the square timber. The square holes should be slightly tight. | |
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| Then how to use.First, fix it to the work table with an F-type clamp. | ||
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| The trimmer can also be firmly fixed with an F-type clamp. | ||
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| Dust collection is perfect. | ||