| Corner doweling jig | 
| Oct. 31/2021 I made a drilling jig to penetrate and fix the dowel in the corner of the frame or the small box.Drawing | 
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| 1.The material is rubber wood laminated lumber. | 2.First, cut it to a width of 60 mm with a table saw. | |
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| 3.Drill 6 mm on both ends of a 6 mm wide slot. | 4.Drill 3 mm at the four corners of the square hole where the drill guide block will fit. This is a process to make it easier to cut with a jigsaw and to make it easier to insert a guide block. | |
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| 5.20mm drilling of the center line confirmation window. | 6.Cut out a 6 mm long hole with a scroll saw. | |
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| 7.Similarly, use a scroll saw to cut out the square hole that insert the drill guide block. | 8.The notch in the square groove that contains the acrylic plate for the center line was made using a 5.5 mm thick plywood template. | |
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| 9.Use a 6mm bit to dig a 3mm deep groove. | 10.Use Japanese ash for the drill guide block. Cut 10 mm from the edge and process it into a T shape. | |
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| 11.Cut to a length of 53 mm. | 12.This is a 45 degree drilling jig made from offcuts. | |
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| 13.Bolt through hole 6 mm for fixing L-shaped bracket. | 14.Pilot hole for M6T-nut, 7.4mm. | |
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| 15.The T-nut can be pushed straight in by sandwiching it with a vise. | 16.There is no counterbore. | |
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| 17.Drill with a pocket hole jig. | 18.Fix it to a right angle jig and fix it with screws | |
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| 19.Glue a 9.5mm plug made with the round bar shaving jig introduced last month. | 20.When sanded there, it becomes a beautiful oval pattern. | |
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| 21.Place the drill guide block on the 45 degree drilling jig, align the drilling position, and fix the jig to the drill table. Now you can make a hole in the same position. | 22.For alignment, I used a thin taper reamer with a sharp point, which is used for center punch. | |
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| 23.Drilling for pipe 6*8. First drill 8mm holes. The depth is 40mm. | 24.Next, Drilling a 6mm through hole. | |
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| 25.Drilling for pipe 8*10. First drill 10mm holes. The depth is 40mm. | 26.Next, Drilling a 8mm through hole. | |
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| 27.Drilling for pipe 10*12. First drill 12mm holes. The depth is 40mm. | 28.Next, Drilling a 10mm through hole. | |
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| 29.Here, it was found that the outer diameter of the 12 mm pipe was about 12.5 mm. Therefore,  Turning the outer diameter with lathe. | 30.Glue the pipe to the drill guide block with two-component epoxy. | |
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| 31.Grooving to insert the slide crosspiece into the main body.12mm width x 3mm depth. | 32.Grooving to bond the crosspiece to the L-shaped bracket.12mm width x 5mm depth. | |
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| 33.After adhering the pedestal for the plate that holds the drill guide block, Drilling 2.5 mm. | 34.Make a counterbore. | |
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| 35.Make a counterbore to sink the flange of the insert nut. Diameter 9 mm x depth 1 mm. | 36.Drilling 6 mm. | |
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| 37.Screw in the insert nut with a hex wrench. | 38.This is a fence to prevent the disposable board from falling. 2.5 mm drilling for mounting screws. | |
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| 39.Fix the fence under the L-shaped bracket. | 40.Attach a fence to the side in the same way. | |
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| 41.When the fence is attached, it becomes like this, and the disposable board does not fall or shift sideways. | 42.After cutting 3t of acrylic plate for the center line as shown in the drawing, cut the four corners to R3 with a sander. | |
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| 43.Drilling 2.4mm for mounting screws. | 44.Make a counterbore. | |
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| 45.Attach the acrylic plate to the main body and fill in the center line with a scribing needle. | 46.Then, a dented line enters like this. | |
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| 47.Trace over the line with a red pencil. | 48.Then, the center line becomes red and it becomes easy to see. | |
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| 49.This is the holding plate of the drill guide block.After marking the cutting line on an aluminum plate with a width of 20 mm and a thickness of 3 mm, a hole of 4 mm is drilled. | 50.Completed block holding plate. | |
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| 51.Fix the block retainer plate to the main body with screws. The plate that can be seen on the left side of the holding plate is a stopper to prevent the holding plate from rotating. | 52.Completed body, drill guide block, disposable board. | |
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| 53.The side of the main body. | 54.The back side of the L-shaped bracket. | |
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| 55.The back side of the main body. Can see the centerline scale and the back of the drill guide block. | 56.Looking at the centerline scale from the front side, it looks like this. | |
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| 57.The state where the drill guide block is inserted into the main body. | 58.The aluminum retainer plate is rotated 90 degrees and locked. | |
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| 59.I bought a middle size drill with a total length of 160 mm and a blade length of 100 mm from RAKUTEN for 6 mm and 8 mm drills. What you can see in the upper right is the stopper that I bought at MONOTARO before. | 60.When I measured the total length of the 10mm drill that I usually use, it was 140mm, so I think I can use it somehow. | |
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| When making a dowel hole, fix the jig to the work with an F clamp. | ||
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| Please see the video for how to use it. | ||